98ste Vierdaagse van 15-18 Juli 2014 160km

I won't say it wasn't tough. The four day marches finally came and passed and I must say I am relieved to have completed it. It is unfortunate that this event was marred by a disaster that affected many lives here in the Netherlands. The Malaysian Airlines flight MH17 that was shot down on its way to Thailand from Amsterdam had several friends and family mourning this tragic occurance. May they all rest in peace.

It happened, or we learned of this news on the third day of the march. Flags were raised to half mast all over the place and there was talk of a cancellation of the event. There was a reduction of music but the march resumed until the end.

The day before we  registered ourselves and had our bracelet thingies attached together with instructions for the next day, it was exciting yet nerve wrecking at the same time, I seriously doubted whether or not I will make it to day three.

Chuffed to be the first SS to do the walk.

The first morning was early and the walkers were all decked out and geared for the march, stretching, having coffee etc We stood impatiently in line awaiting the start and the throng of people to slowly inch on to the scanner ladies who scanned our bracelets and wished us 'success'.

 The air was crisp and the fields glistened with early morning dew however before all of that and not 10 meters away, we had our cheering squads.




I must tell you this march is accompanied by festivities. Bands both local and International perform on various stages around Nijmegen.

 This way, the cheer and encouraging shouts from drunken party goers  were entertaining and put a great start to the walk.

Scanification. I wonder if this ladys arm hurt from all the scanning.

Some still with beers in their hands, many had brought out their sofas whilst there were some who appeared to have slept outside.


 Farther on we saw families, children and the elderly outside cheering and wishing all success. They held out bowls with sweets, cucumbers, ice lollies and all sorts of things for any walkers who wished.

 

Free massage spots where you could get a rub to put some life into those muscles.

Every now and then we would pass rest areas selling coffee and breakfast snacks. It was amazing how many people were out and about at that early hour.

From the get go it was fascinating what attires people chose to wear for this walk. There were walkers in clogs, a lady in 6 inch heel platforms, some strange socklike shoe with divisions for each toe, I don't know how the thought of a separate section for each toe would help in walking, I mean we did have webbed feet at one point in time. There  even was a speedy oldish Latin looking man with pointed shiny shoes, he looked like he belonged in a cigar parlor.

Beautiful scenery, this one taken from the bridge, whenever we walked over a highway, trucks and cars honked and waved at the walkers

A much needed herring

The various military groups were interesting, we saw the Dutch of course, the English, German, Italian, Spanish (some people kept repeating '5-1, 5-1' when the Spaniards marched by). There were the Norwegians, the Swedes, Fins as well I think.

 Each day we finished between 15:30  and 16:30 and started at 6:30. Our hosts were simply super whom without it would not have all been possible.

Following the first day, there was not much pain or aches, the stiffness slowly passed as we started the day. The third day however was the worse, I didn't think another day of it would be possible and even started entertaining the idea of an incomplete Vierdaagse, after the first day alone, it would have totally been worth it having witnessed what was happening all around.

Turned out the aches however stiff or intolerable are a part of it, the human body is capable of it, no one said it was going to be a piece of cake.

The walks took us through a different area each day and the terrain was somewhat hilly with a lot of water bodies.

We did the 40 which is the grey line, you can see the route on all four days here, here, here and here. You can read everything you need to know about the four day marches on here

The last day was a bit surreal, it didn't sink in that it was almost over and we anticipated the finish where we got our medallions and Gladioli. The crowds were quite large and the music was blasting, every town we walked into had a welcoming that included radio stations, some had many bands, disc jockeys some as young as 12.

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Many towns had a special tent with the mayor out to watch as and the streets were decorated. One of the towns we walked into had story themes, many gardens had manikins and stuffed giant animals to symbolize their corresponding stories.

On a few instances I was asked what flag I bore and I told them its a South Sudanese flag, there were British flags, Surinamese, South African and many other flags. I was surprised by the presence of the residents all along the routes we walked, its as if everybody participated. It was touching to see a large part of a street dedicated to patients with disabilities from the local hospital. Many homes had water and hoses or sprays that one could walk under or into, it was so refreshing and cooling I made sure I did it a lot.

Instant cooling sprays

Arrivals

I am glad to have undergone this endeavor, equally so as my partner and soul mate presented an excellent walking partner and fellow adventurer. I saw a lot of this country and pray that sooner rather than later peace and prosperity will come to South Sudan where all human rights are upheld and the country is governed by those whose sole role in office is to ensure the well being of its citizens and the land as a whole. 

It was my aim to write about this walk and subsequently draw attention to events in South Sudan, I am pleased that many readers who knew nothing of the conflict are now informed through reading this blog as many are still walking in their search for a better life for themselves and loved ones. Please click on this link to an inspiring paper by the South Sudan Law Society titled, Memory, Healing and Transformation in South Sudan for it is through remembering them all can we heal and transform as a nation.

Our third year Independence came and passed with not as much of the joyous festivities as it did in the past. The still unstable environment as well the suffering of many of its people tarnishes this day yet just as our independence came to pass three years ago so will this dark period.

Training, 40km, book town, awesome creek

Agriculture and the Dutch go hand in hand (Dairy too)

This time we walked in the Achterhoek, which literally translates to 'behind corner'. It lies to the easternmost part of the Gelderland, quite close to the German border actually. Two distinct attraction stood out here, the first a beautiful Shirelike creek forest (or woods I'm not sure) and a book town. You can view the map here. I must add the map was courtesy of the Opa, the luxuries of walking 40 km starting and finishing off at Opa and Oma had immense benefits that come with pampering, a preplanned route as well as being fed delicious rich meals.

Is it a..?.no its a horse in a zebra print, you gotta love animal prints!

 Our walk took us into a book town. This cute little town called Bredevoort was the loveliest thing and had a mere 1600 inhabitants.

It was literally a book town. Mainly because walking through the cobbled streets you see books upon books outside peoples homes, sometimes with no one manning them and a sign saying ''all books 1 euro'' and a basket to place your fare. I love it!

Books galore!

Walking through this little town I couldn't help but think of our very own South Sudanese Leaves Bookstore back home. If you ever find yourself in Juba; visit Leaves and expect the unexpected.

 

Speaking of books, we march on Tuesday 15th and I have downloaded a few audio books to keep me entertained during the four days; currently I'm looking forward to listening to ''Lagacy of the Drow'' and the adventures of Drizzt Do'Urden. Three books I read in 2004. If your going to walk for eight hours or so, nothing beats a fantasy world with fascinating fighting scenes and unworldly lifestyles.

 

Inhabitants outside major cities in the Netherlands are usually more friendly although their English tends to be thicker than their city fellows yet interacting with the lady who lived in one of these houses showed a fluent accent. It must be all the books :) 

     

As we left this pretty little town, it was time for a break.

We sat on a bench where there happened to be a photo shoot happening right in the vicinity, it appeared to be a good spot to have a break at the time.

Unfortunately birds in the branches above decided it was convenient to release their bowels atop my head, shoulders and back.

Bird droppings are tough to get off too. Ill be scanning the trees next time I decide to pick a resting spot!

Following the lovely book town we came upon the forest Bekendelle. It was a warm and sunny day and the forest shade provided cool and comfortable tranquility. Its always nice to walk into a natural forest in the Netherlands, the symmetrical lines within the tree lines in other woody areas always appear to be planned and ordered with a sense of industry.

 

The forest also brings into hearing a variety of sounds. Being here made me wonder; throughout nature be it amongst plants, mammals, reptiles, birds or whatever, we see the male species colorful and primmed, shiny in their appearance and pleasing to the eye, others of magnificent plumage or dazzling in their own multitude of colour, why then are we humans different where an attempt to groom oneself is considered abnormal and strange, sometimes even gay; instead this tantalizing bit of vanity is reserves to us females.

 It was so quiet in the forest, the above creek was so clear and I believe the vegetation predominant at the base of the photo to be Pioson Ivy. This plant if in contact with naked skin causes irritation and itchiness. Warnings may warn of redness of the skin, if you cannot see any redness, then look out for irritant itchiness.

Scary crossing

This camera does not give the flowers credit, their real colour was so bright!

Training 40 KM Wije

Training 40Kkm is starting to become a smooth endeavor now although I do have concerns over being able to do so for four consecutive days in a row. I am now walking 40km rather than the promised 50km and the reason for this change is because I fear my inability to complete the extra 10km. It isnt carved in stone and can be altered at a later date should I feel able to. Please click here for the route.

We walked through the de Sallandse Heuvelrug National Park for part of the distance and were accompanied by a rather active dog that a friend was babysitting, unfortunately we had to keep him on a leash throughout the whole trip as per the parks regulation. It isnt easy training with a jittery dog, luckily he accompanied us for only about an hour or so. There were fleeting sightings of deer.



Endless trails

 At one point the dog (I can't recal his name but it sounded Fresian) dashed into the foliage almost dragging me along with it, turns out he had sighted a deer. Whats more, the dog is a hunting breed by nature and deffinately one to keep an eye on.

This forest/wood was quite pretty and I couldnt help admire the natural flow of things which unlike many woody areas in the Netherlands that I have been in did not have the trees planted in geometrical preciseness of streight lines.

Back home theres good news and theres bad news, the good news is that on the 5 of May, parties to the conflict signed an agreement under the Intergovernmental Authority of Development (IGAD), recommitting to the humanitarian affairs in the cessation of hostilities. The bad news is said talks have now been put on hold due to a supposed insult to the conflicting parties. The term 'stupid' was used by the IGAD mediator and now our president demands an apology.


Thousands of people are dying of starvation and desease within this humanitarian crisis yet ones bruised ego surpasses all this. A halt to the talks on forming an interim government is the most 'stupid' thing I have heard in a while. You can read the story here and here.



A very Gezellig looking cottage in a valley

The right image of a hut in the valley was very ''warm and fuzzy'' one cannot help but fantasize about staying in there, cut off from the world surrounded by tranquility and nature without the sound of an automotive or civilisation for that matter. A love nest or a recluse to write, reflect or paint.

I also noticed the lack of actual dangerouse species, every time an alien bug flies at me I jump, I have to keep reminding myself that this is not Africa where you cannot just dash into the foliage and must keep an eye on what lands on you and what approaches your vacinity. Other than the Adder snake, bees and wasps I'm not sure what other life threatenning wildlife and creatures exist in this cute little country although Wolves are known to stray over from Germany.




A rare Dirt Road

Speaking of wild animals, the conflict back home also takes a toll on our wildlife. Elaphants are being hunted for their flesh as well as their tusks, you can read the sad story here.

Dirt roads are rare here, walking on them always gives me a feeling of being elsewhere as the Netherlands feels like SIM city, everything is you see has been planned, it all looks so perfect to the point where a little ruggedness is always pleasant.

We started walking around 10:20 and arrived at destination at about 20:00. The destination was a friend who had prepared a lovely meal for us in her garden. We had it in the sunlight, speaking of sunlight the days are longer now and sunset is at around 22:00. I find this quite strange to have sunlight all the way to midnight at times here, in South Sudan, sunrise and sunset times donot fluctuate for more that3 to four hours at most (my estimates although for accurate times google shall provide)



More cows

I also noticed an outdoor culture here in the Netherlands, people are always outdoors especially now that summer is upon is. There was a time when I was growing up where the males in our family had to be careful about being outdoors as they may not come back. This is because in Khartoum, forced army recruitment took place. You would be grabbed from the street and put in a truck. The next thing you know, a messenger arrives at your home telling you to collect your familys members body from the morgue, he died fighting for his country in the South!




Another dirt road.

Conscription is now happening in Unity State although there is resistance from many to it. Click here for full story. Fighting for ones country should be voluntary and conscription is a sad reality especially when it involves children as is well put in this story here from World Vision.



As people continue to flee their homes I cant help but wonder how far I would get, they say the human body is capable of enduring harsher conditions, that is true, yet at the end of every training day, the pain cripples and the determination wavers, but then again, I am not running from eminent death nor am I walking in the bush where the threat of wild animals is just as great as the threat of a gunshot wound, rape and countless more horrors. More reason to continue and hope that change is inevitable and all this horror will be over.



A poem of dispair.

I wrote the following poem a while back in 2008, at the time it reflected my state of mind and although I have no recollection of how I felt at the time, I feel this poem to be fitting in relation to the current situation at home, a situation so tragic it reflects life as we see through its constant disruption to peace, to stability and to prosperity for again, it has come...

It has come

what dreadful beast
what malicious being
to descent upon ones innocent being
to be caught unawares
when time is spent to avoid such descent

It has come
It has caught me again
A game of tag, or catch or chase
It has come

Oh what to give to rid ones being of such
It blinds my eyes and deafens my ears
disillusioned and paranoid

It has come

It has come again though last I vowed
to note its approach and tame its coming

It has come
yet not for long
a lifelong visitor
known not to last

But woe for now
It has come

Piwang Ayang

Training 43.5 km

This walk took place on the Dutch Commemoration day or Remembrance day, see here. A day to remember the fallen during conflict since World War 2 and the dead are honored on the 4th of May. Writing this post also coincides with our very own SPLA/SPLM day which took place on the 16th May. See here.

 Events back home are still headed towards a downward spiral. Although an agreement to cease hostilities has been reached between the President Salva Kiir and the rebel leader Riak Machar (click here for article) it is but a first step, the challenge now is to exercise control and discipline over military personnel on the ground. Whether or not we see change on that front will attest to the two parties military capabilities that goes back decades. We continue to pray that they put a stop to the killing. 

Whats more, the threat of a cholera outbreak  threatens to worsen the already fragile environment as well as looming food insecurities as expressed better in this article here. This conflict has gravely crippled my home and unless a stop is put to the fighting, it will be a very steep slope towards improvement, one cannot help but feel let down and betrayed by the government. 

Our walk was along the coast, although windy, it was a pleasant day. There were bunkers along the dunes where soldiers hid to spy on the enemy should they attack via the sea. Those were trying times for the Dutch especially when the Germans invaded however all of that is in the past and this country enjoys a prosperity that I wish to see in South Sudan one day during my lifetime. 

Herring from the tail.

At one point we spotted a fish outlet and decided to take a break and have a raw herring. Ever since I arrived here in the Netherlands, I developed an addiction to the raw fish eaten with chopped onions. I wonder what my mother would make of it as its one of those things where you either love it or hate it as is the case with Drop (liquorish) which I absolutely despise.


At 8 O'Clock we took another break and listened into the radio where a minute of silence was undergone in memory of all who died. This was followed by the Dutch national anthem which we also witnessed as we turned the corner through a gathering of people. It was a moment of silence for the fallen in wars all over the world, past and current as well as those of my fellow South Sudanese. 

Training day-30km

Note the shoes hanging on the rails above

It was a grey dreary walk whilst training this time. 30 km did not feel as scary as it did at first and it appears to be that my body is growing accustomed to such endurance seeing as the next day, all signs of aching had gone. We walked from Dordrecht as seen here. The grey overcast skies personified the continued conflict in South Sudan.

The International Community, the United Nations, heads of states as well as many others condemn the fighting and encourage peace dialogue and an end to the fighting. Both the president as well as the rebel leader expressed their willingness to talk although I am very skeptical about the good such talks will bring. We are in a state of war with territory being captured and recaptured, meanwhile food security is non existent for many as well as the continued additions to the death toll. Please click on BBC news.

Yumm!

Although the rainy season brings floods and the threat of diseases, it is also known to hinder conflict, perhaps it is now down to mother nature to put a hold on death.

This walk had plenty of delights, it took us through the Kinderdijks. A system of windmills that manage the water flow, without it, a huge part of the Netherlands would have a serious problem and I constantly admire the Dutch innovation in keeping most of their country dry whilst being below the sea level. Somebody once told me the bridge that links Juba and Gumbo was built by the Dutch, an injection of such skilled labor could do us some good in Nation building.

 







Further on during the walk, we came across this poster to the right outside someones house, I asked my partner to translate it for me as the premises did not look like a hotel, here is what it means in English:
Hotel Mama,
All inclusive 24 hours, 7 days a week open,
Unlimited food and drink, washing and ironing service, Homework assistance,
Taxi service, this hotel is lovingly run and worthy of more than 5 stars.

I thought it was the nicest thing I had seen all day and made me miss my mother dearly. 






Later on during the day when we had gotten to the outskirts of Rotterdam at a time when the mind is distant and far, we were jolted by this jingling sound that tends to signal the closure of a route to allow a train, tram or metro to pass. It didnt sound like the usual so we just stood there in confusion seeing as no rail tracks were in sight. The barrier came down (almost on our heads), with us in the wrong side I must add and then this bus just drove paste with nobody manning it. I had never seen anything like it before!

 I have seen these buses parked at the Kralingse Zoom station but never thought them to be driver-less, how efficient. Of all the cities and towns I have been in here in the Netherlands, Rotterdam is by far the coolest, most futuristic and diverse of them all, next thing you know we will be seeing drones whizzing past in the skies delivering peoples packages!

A driver-less bus!